Camino Primitivo - The Quest For Truth Hike

This is my tenth Camino, the eight time I have come to the Cathedral. Although to be fair I got the bus from Azura this time. Couldn’t be bothered walking through O Pedruzo yet again. I’m arguing that once the Primitivo hits the Frances, it was done. I won’t get my sins wiped like in the old days but, ah sure look, I’ll take my chances.  I don’t mind saying that I got on my knees and sobbed uncontrollably, animal like. Also, I went with a lot of wailing and the odd shriek. ‘Why have you forsaken us’, I cried, to no one in particular. Put the other pilgrims right off so it did. And I prayed that the ‘Woman previously known as Stable’ would become stable again. Sure, ‘twas a long shot but what did I have to lose? They moved me on after a bit, like before. I also prayed that I would beat Alan in chess again. It has been a while. I have formulated some new plans for him, I think he might buckle. 

Not much to report really. Melide was half shut last night -well, it was Monday- but I wouldn’t be rushing back. Three hour walk to Arzua, if that. Both towns kinda kips, truth be told,  with a lot of trucks going through them at high speed. Ironic really, the worst part on the Camino is the last 100 kms, and that’s what most people see. Because most people do just the 100 kms. Also plenty of Albergues all over the place. And lots of peligrinos. Big change from when I last was here over 20 years ago.  Over and out. 

After a lovely sleep (at last) headed off in the dark at 730, except it was no longer dark. I had forgotten about the clock switch (fall back) so twas actually light outside. A good thing.  I cruised today, finally the fitness has kicked in and I easily did the 5 hours (25 kms) with two half hour stops. Well chuffed. Feet were still a bit sore. Shame I’m not going to get the benefit of this now that I finish walking tomorrow (only three hours to Arzua tomorrow) but still a really nice, tight Camino in two weeks start to finish including all travel. 

What pins! And note the socks over the laces, a veteran move. 

I left the stick behind me, forgot all about it. Never got a picture either… Departed Lugo at 830,  not very motivated and soon found myself on a line of six on the road. All new folk taking advantage of the 100kms rule. Whatever about that, twas nearly all road walking today which is not ideal. The Primitivo has been good up to now but I sense more people and more roads.  Glad I’m finishing in Arzua and bussing into Santiago on Tuesday at noon. My feet are kinda sore after today. Only took two photos the whole day, and one was a joke. The bridge below is actually near a decent river set up with paths and sports clubs on the outside of Lugo. Lugo itself, while not stunning despite the walls, has a decent vibe about, especially near the cathedral. I’d go back. 

Early start and had to go back for the stick which I left in the room. No way I was leaving it behind me, not after everything we’ve been through. Two hours up and down to Castroverde, then another four hours to Lugo in the Galician drizzle.  Caught up with Callum and Iris again who are bailing out early. Shame, they were good fun. Maybe they’ll reconsider, it’s only two days to the Camino Frances route intersection at Melide.

This day is known as ‘ rompe piernas’ on this Camino, translates as ‘leg breaker’. Fortunately the sun was out so all was good. All I’ll say about it is that I got some good sunset shots.  The trail continues to be good with very little road walking. We had the unusual sound of classical music bearing down on us as we left the town in darkness at 730am. When I looked behind all I could see was two huge headlights, the biggest head lamps (or brightest) I have ever seen. I thought the SS were after me. All that was missing were the dogs. 

Lucky again. It rained all night but stopped at 7am, and I headed out into the dark at 740. Other than temporarily losing my phone for ten minutes nothing much to report. Fitness noticeably picking up while pain level dropping, par for the course for first week of a Camino. Climbed to over 1000 metres without much ado, fair play me and crossed into Galicia.  Fonsagrada perched on top of a mountain so pretty chilly, and tractors abound. Holding out a few days before I hit the Pulpo. 

I had the pork last night and I’ve been eyeing up the chuletas for quite a while now…

The dam was completely deserted so I don’t know how it all works. Must check it out.  Per the machine,  the  dam and hydroelectric facility at Grandas de Salime are still in use. It continues to regulate the river, manage water releases, and appears to run its hydro-units (or at least maintain them in operable condition). It was built just over 70 years ago and is operated remotely.  Its average annual generation (which gives a reasonable estimate of its typical output): Net capacity / turbines: ~157–160 MW (4 units).   Typical / average annual generation reported: ~300–350 GWh/year (this is given as an average, not a year-by-year measured value).   The plant is listed as operating in up-to-date industry trackers and local operator pages 

The dam was completely deserted so I don’t know how it all works. Must check it out.  Per the machine the  dam and hydroelectric facility at Grandas de Salime are still in use. It continues to regulate the river, manage water releases, and appears to run its hydro-units (or at least maintain them in operable condition).  its average annual generation (which gives a reasonable estimate of its typical output): Net capacity / turbines: ~157–160 MW (4 units).   Typical / average annual generation reported: ~300–350 GWh/year (this is given as an average, not a year-by-year measured value).   The plant is listed as operating in up-to-date industry trackers and local operator pages 

Interesting enough day where you walk to La Mesa then steep uphill and then you see Grandas only thing is you have to go around the reservoir and dam to get to it which is a lot of downhill on one side and then 5kms uphill on the road. 

Is what I ordered for dinner last night. I’m still eating it 24 hours later . 

T oday I went over a summit which was 1,146 meters (El Palu ‘The Pole’) compared with  Carrauntoohil’s 1038 metres. And for once I managed to snatch victory from the jaws of defeat. The plan was to conserve as much energy as possible until towards the final summit. However, for some reason I ended up on an old Camino way up the mountain which required going into a cabbage field, jumping two electric fences and traversing a flowing river over slippy stones. Fortunately I had my long stick with me and without it, I’d have been goosed (versus being ducked).  I owe that stick my life.  So not an ideal start but I eventually got to the right path and up and over, no pics from top due to 55 mph winds but you’ll have to take my word for it.